Saturday, 27 November 2010

Roaches Upper Tier 26/11/10

Wow what a great day it has been. You couldn't have asked for better weather, the sky was clear and the warmth off the sun was there all day.

Went out with Jamie, Rach and Henry. I tagged up with Henry and we hit some great Roaches grit routes, had a pretty chilled out day and got 3 routes done, and drank loads of tea.

Black and Tans *** - Sever 4a
A classic expedition weaving up the impressive buttress. 1) 4a, 14m. Climb Hollybush Gully and move out left to climb a groove to its top, step left across the side-wall then mantelshelf onto a small stance. 2) 4a, 16m. Continue up the groove then step left and tackle the bulges by a trio of awkward, and poorly-protected semi-mantelshelves, mild but bold. It is also possible to start up Jeffcoat's Chimney then follow ledges rightwards via a long traverse to the base of the groove, at the same grade. © ROCKFAX

Great lovely flowing route few exposed mantle shelf's but good gear

Technical Slab ** - HS 4a
4m. Despite the name, not very technical but bold in its central section. Climb straight up the slab (harder for the short and unprotected where it matters) until you join the traverse of Pedestal Route. Finish as for Pedestal Route, or more in keeping, out right as for Hollybush Crack. © ROCKFAX

A very balance stretchy climb bags of fun, protection is a little lacked.

War Wound * - E1 6a
12m. Climb the tough wall (especially hard to start) to a ledge and gear then finish up the rounded arete on the left. © ROCKFAX

Great route quite powerful first moves, bold and a little scary ending

What a great day, with some great friends.

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